Monday, 26 August 2013

Vintage coat rework

I bought this coat from a charity shop last winter thinking that it would be my new favourite item!

 Firstly, I love the mohair blend fabric and secondly I thought that the fact it was a size 18 would give a great oversized look that I had seen and liked alot. In reality it just always looked too big. The problem with this is that it is very structured on the shoulders, so was too bulky up top. If it had a raglan sleeve or more of a shoulder slope then maybe I could have carried it off. I still love the fabric and thought it a shame to not do anything with it. Even looking at the pictures now, I think that it should have somehow worked as  coat, but it really didn't.

I decided I would like a vintagey shaped boxy jacket with a more contemporary silhouette. The sort I would love to buy from Cos or Marimekko if I had the money!

This is kind of what I mean. Easy shapes that look clean and are easy to wear.

I have this vintage Vogue sewing pattern for a boxy jacket that I referred to for neckline and shoulder ideas and also provides a visual link to the vintage and contemporary look I am going for.

I was hoping to avoid having to make buttonholes, as they could have ruined the finish, so retained as much of the original detail as possible in my rework. I cut the jacket, so that the hem, button front, pockets, lining and sleeve hems were all in tact. This helps to make it look less handmade. It also made this a REALLY quick project that I completed in just a couple of hours once I had considered and planned my approach.

The finished jacket and how it was originally part of the coat.

I pinned some simple pattern pieces to the front of the coat and lined up the centre fronts before cutting the shape of the neckline and shoulder slopes. The cut stops at the side of the coat, but there is no side seam on this garment. I did the same with the back and made a big enough straight cut down the sides to insert the sleeves. I then cut the sleeves from the original coat as far up as I thought I wanted the length of the sleeves to be. I machined the shoulders of the main fabric and lining sewed and topstitched the neckline before inserting the sleeves, finishing the armhole lining by hand. The only change I may make is to source some nicer buttons, or to make some cover buttons with the remainder of the fabric.

Finished jacket front. The oriignal pockets are now nearer closer to the armpit than the hip.

finished jacket back
 Overall verdict - I love it!