Monday, 31 March 2014

Me made jeans pattern drafting

I have been determined that I must make my own pattern for my jeans project and it's been alot of work, but after alot of slashing, cutting and sewing I think I now have a good close fitting trouser block to work from.

It has been a valuable process and I have learnt alot about my shape. I now know why I have NEVER been able to find decent fitting trousers!

Here is the toile I have just finished in a rather jazzy floral!

 The view from the inside as it's hard to see the fit from the front (due to jazzy floral). The side seam seems to fall back a bit around the ankle, but a minor detail that I'll hopefully be able to rectify.

 This block can now hopefully be adapted to be tighter, looser etc...

You can see from my final pattern pieces that this is nothing like a commercial trouser pattern. I have, shall we say, curvacious legs, so need quite alot of shaping to the thigh on the trouser front and calf to eliminate uncomfortable pulling. There is also more shape added to the hip side seam on the front to accomodate my shape. Look how high the centre back seam is too!!!

It's a good feeling to have made this pattern and I now feel happy that I do not have gross legs or am somehow distorted, I just don't fit a regular mould when it comes to trousers!

 It's hard to believe these two pattern pieces belong together, but they do.


Katie said...

Definitely a worthwhile exercise, the fit looks fabulous. Will you then just add a waistband for the jeans? I find I always get the most fit issues in the damn waistband! (back gape, always back gape)

Marilla Walker said...

Cheers dear! Yep, will be adding a waistband, but thinking of making the back seam adjustable, a la olde style. Check out my Pinterest board for jeansperation. I may go down a vintage Levi's road with big turn-ups. Can't make my mind upjust yet, so may need to make a few pairs.

Anonymous said...

I am in total awe of your pattern drafting skills. No matter how much work you have put into it the results are fantastic.

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks! Still quite a bit of work to do, but getting there. I'll try and post a mini tutorial of how I did it at some point (not sure when) to give an idea of how to go about it yourself :-)

Hana - Marmota said...

Great! Good luck!
I think you can draft a waistband from the pattern itself, no? You know, incorporating the shape from the darts? Also, back seam is of course good.