Saturday, 20 December 2014

Freemantle coat - lining the coat with enclosed seams


I realised quite late on in proceedings that my Freemantle coat was quite a serious undertaking. The level of finish it requires is not for everyone, but by the time I had come to this conclusion it seemed too late to change it (well, in my head it did anyway). In a bid to satisfy the majority I have devised this method of making the lining look like a regular lining. I'm not saying that I've invented a method or that no-one's done this before, but this is how I did it without altering the existing pattern pieces.

All instructions from this point are referring to VIEW C (as pictured), but can be used for all views.

Cut your paper pattern pieces for VIEW C, but with the VIEW A neck line on the sleeves, fronts and back. This neckline will be cut away to VIEW C later.


Cutting plan - Lining
  • 2 x sleeves
  • 2 x fronts
  • 1 x back
  • 2 x pocket linings
Cutting plan - Main fabric
  • 2 x sleeves
  • 2 x fronts
  • 1 x back
  • 2 x pocket welts
  • 2 x pocket facings
  • 1 x collar
  • 2 x front facings
  • 1 x back neck facing

Cut the lining fabric first. There is no need for the collar 'feature' on the lining, so to cut down on the additional work you shall cut the neckline of VIEW A for this part. Whilst the pattern pieces are in place mark the tailors tacks on the sleeve edges and gusset extension. Also snip 0.5cm into the sleeve top to mark the beginning of the sewing lines of the dart and snip 0.5cm into the neck edge to mark the centre back.

Now cut the neckline away to VIEW C on the paper pattern pieces of the fronts, back and sleeves and proceed to cut all main fabric pieces as per the above cutting plan. Mark all tailors tacks and snip 0.5cm into the sleeve top to mark the beginning of the sewing lines of the dart. Also snip 0.5cm into the neck edge to mark the centre back of the coat back, collar and back neck facing.

Cut and fuse interfacing to the front facings, back neck facing and pocket welts.


Follow the instructions as provided with the pattern, but do not bind the edges of the pocket bag as no-one will see this. Continue to hand stitch the top pocket seam flat against the reverse side of the jacket front to stop it distorting the welt from the front. Use herringbone stitch for this as it is sturdy and can be done catching only very small amounts of fabric.


Make up the coat and lining as two independant shells using the pattern instructions as far as the sleeves.

Turn the main fabric shell inside out and with the lining shell the right way out slip the lining over the main fabric, slotting the main sleeves into the lining sleeves. 

Construct the cuffs and attach to the sleeve ends catching both the lining and main fabric as per the instructions. Finish as per the instructions with the bias binding.

Just to clarify, I did this step slightly differently. I attached the cuff to the main fabric shell only and topstitched the cuff seam to the main fabric sleeve from the front. I then slotted the lining over and slip stitched the lining in place on the sleeve end.You can do either way.


The lining needs to be anchored to the main outer coat to stop it from billowing, so with the coat layed down flat and the lining facing you, pull back the lining fronts to expose the front side seams. Pin the flat lining side seam allowance to the flat side seam allowance of the main fabric from the hem up to the underarm and finishing just before the collar. Machine the two seam allowances together about 0.5 cm (or a foot width) away from the original seam. Below is a wee daigram to help convey what I mean!

Pull the lining back over and pin both layers together along the neck edge and centre fronts.


Follow the main instructions for this part, catching both the main fabric and lining fabric in the seam.


As per the main pattern instructions.

Hopefully this all makes sense, but if not then give me a shout!

Fabric details for this sample are as follows:
  • Brown boiled wool knit (non-stretch) for main outer fabric from here.
  • Geometric wool knit for front panels from my fabrics, but no longer available.
  • Brown cotton ribbed fabric for cuffs from here.
  • Oatmeal brushed cotton fabric for underlining bought on eBay, but no longer available.

In my next post I will show you how I made this cardigan using my pattern and then maybe I'll get a little less Freemantle on you!