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Thursday, 18 December 2014

NEW PATTERN - FREEMANTLE COAT

Hooray, hooray, my new pattern is released today! Look, this is how pleased I am right now!


I have been going on about this coat for a while and I'm so glad to be able to show it to you. The idea was originally born out of wanting to make myself a winter coat here. I did not really start out with the intention of making it into an actual pattern, what with me being new to selling my patterns and all, but that is exactly what has happened. It has been a large undertaking, but I totally love the result and have already been messing with different fabrics and have sweatshirt and a cardigan version that I want to share with you very soon. One thing at a time hey?





You can see that there are three views to choose time (so mega value for money) and here's some more info about the pattern!


This cocoon shape is cut very wide across the upper torso and shoulders tapering down in volume towards the hem. There are interesting elements to the construction in the form of a gusset extension built onto the front armhole edge. This wraps under the arm to allow movement and when sewn together provides an interesting seam detail (more importantly, it's fun to assemble). A varied silhouette is achieved by two very different sleeve options. The wide sleeve gives the finished garment a more ‘Japanese’ aesthetic, whilst the tapered sleeve has a sporty edge with the ribbed cuff finish. There is also a shorter length wide jacket with zip front and tapered sleeves that is more casual in style and probably the most versatile. Most elements of the construction are exposed, as the coat is underlined rather than lined, so a good, clean finish is maintained throughout. The finish is what I would call 'high end', but not traditional tailoring. I've put my own ideas into practice here and created a coat that I am proud to show inside and out.

This pattern is mostly suited to an intermediate/advanced sewer, but I will be giving instructions here on the blog in the coming weeks of how to construct a version with enclosed seams that would be more suitable for an advanced beginner/intermediate sewer.


We have suitably wintery weather at the moment for taking pictures of coats and jackets!





The fit does have ALOT of built in ease (just how I like it), so the shape is not lacking in volume, which is something to bear in mind when selecting your size. Finished garment measurements have been provided for this exact purpose and in case you are wondering I am wearing a size 4 on the size scale. My measurements (at this time) are; bust - 36", waist - 30" and hips - 40", so you can see I have selected a size according to my bust rather than hips. I always advise making a toile first when you are making something new like this.



Here's a bit more detail regarding the 3 different views in terms of details and fabric requirements...

VIEW A - V-neck, popper front mid-thigh length coat with front welt pockets and wide, cropped sleeves (requires 215cm of main fabric and underlining fabric).

VIEW B - V-neck, popper front mid-thigh length coat with front welt pockets, tromp l'oeil collar and tapered, knitted cuff sleeves (requires 215cm of main fabric and underlining fabric).

VIEW C - V-neck, zip front hip length jacket with front welt pockets, tromp l'oeil collar and tapered, knitted cuff sleeves (requires 170cm of main fabric and underlining fabric)

FABRICS

Medium coat weight wool for the main outer fabric – For your reference, my samples were made using a wool velour coating (VIEW A sample), a cashmere/wool velour coating (VIEW B sample) and a boiled wool/wool knit combination (VIEW C sample)

Light/medium weight brushed cotton for the underlining – I used a brushed cotton underlining on all samples.

I would not suggest choosing a fabric combination any thicker than I have outlined for construction purposes.

Anyway, I think that's all I want to say for now other than you can buy it here, here, here!!!!