Tuesday, 3 March 2015

Hand printed Ilsley skirt

In case you didn't catch the last post, this is my new free pattern the Ilsley skirt! This next version has been put together a little differently to the instructions, which is what I'm going to run through. It's not vastly different, but the waistband has been made up as an entire piece and then attached to the skirt instead of being constructed onto the skirt. Oh, and there is some bias edging to the hem and a little bit of printing!!!

I wanted this pattern and a good clean finish to be accessible to everyone with just a standard straight stitch, which means that everything is enclosed. The question I asked myself was can my mum sew this on her machine? If the answer was yes then it must be ok! For this version I have ignored that and cracked open the overlocker and sewn plain seams. I haven't photo documented this part of the construction, but the insides are fairly standard.

The first change to construction was the hem. Rather than a double turning I bound the edge with a self fabric binding. I was thinking of doing a black contrast, but thought it may look a bit harsh, so chickened out and went for matching instead.

This is how I did it...

I cut two strips of bias fabric each long enough to complete the hem edge measuring 4cm wide.

In the absence of a bias binding maker I made it manually like so...

I pressed the fabric strip in half length wise, pressed the edges in to meet the newly pressed centre fold and finally folded the strip in half again to create my bias tape.

There are many ways to attach bias binding, but for this I stitched both the reverse and right side in one go. I did this because I find it easier to assess the curve this way and ensure that I neither over ease nor over stretch the tape. I pinned it first and then topstitched in place from the right side. The tape just tails off about 2cm above the seam notch and I have pinned where the (now hidden) notch is positioned.

Once stitched in place I snipped off the bias tail, but at an angle and not too close to the notch. In this instance, because I didn't remove the hem allowance before sewing the bias binding to the hem, the side seam extended beyond the notch, but it is still good to pin it's position for lining up the back and the front when sewing your side seam.

I topstitched the side seam down on the bias tape so that it is directed towards the skirt back. It just gave a neater finish this way.

The other change I made was to the waistband. I attached it differently as well as adding a faux front tie. The tie is attached to the side seams and pulled through some buttonholes on the front waistband.

Mark the centre front of the waistband. I found the centre of the width by folding the front waistband in half lengthways and measuring 2.5cm down from the fold and then folded the waistband in half widthways to find the centre front. Mark this point with a cross.

Mark two 1.5cm buttonholes, 1.5cm away from the centre cross approx.

Iron on a scrap of interfacing to the back of where the buttonholes will be and stitch them according to your machine settings.

Sew the two side seams of your waistband and cut two ties the width of your front waistband (enough to make a nice bow at the front). Machine stitch the ties flat to the waistband side seam allowance in line with the buttonholes.

Thread the tie through the buttonhole. I used a cream cotton tape for my ties BTW.

Make up your elastic band and insert into waistband folded in half lengthways. bring the long edges together and pin closed with the pins close to the elastic, but not through it.

Overlock the two edges together around the entire waistband. I'm not getting confused about my machines as the below is obviously my sewing machine, but I was just using it for the light.

Pin your made up waistband to the top of the skirt right sides together. Use your fingers to push the elastic away from the overlocked edge and pin the fabric allowance only to the skirt.

Change your machine foot to your zipper foot with the needle positioned to the left of it and sew the seam with a 1cm allowance.

As well as stitching in the ditch on the side seams, stitch a short line just between the waistband ties to further prevent the elastic from shifting. This will be covered by the ties anyway, so is just a little extra assurance.

That's it the done and this is what the inside of your waistband should look like!
A brief overview of the print in case you're not too bored!
After I cut out all my skirt pieces and before I started making the skirt I used some of my stamps to make a border print and pocket facing.
For the border print I just did four rows of the rubber triangle strip, which is a pre-bought stamp (but no longer available), which was then finished with one row of the arrows. The arrow stamp is a shape cut from soft cut lino using a scalpel and glued to a wooden block. It is not carved so was pretty quick to make and the depth means that it prints a bit cleaner on fabric rather than always marking the fabric with the block. I just dab some screen printing ink onto my blocks and push down onto the fabric (which is laid on a hard surface).


Now, this is pretty naïve looking and not perfectly straight, but I'm ok with that! I think that the moment you start to relax about the imperfections (as a non-expert) it becomes a whole lot more enjoyable. Also, because it's black ink on grey chambray the smudges are less obvious ;-)

For the pocket facing I just randomly stamped with this rubber stamp from my toddler sons art box!

That's about it really! Here are some more pics of the skirt on, but I was not it the mood today, so there were slim pickings of pictures I could actually reveal. Oh the woes of being a sewing blogger!!!

In case you're interested, any print, knit or general embellishment I'm doing on clothes at the moment is directly inspired by an old Guatemalan skirt of my mums. It's an attempt to create further cohesion within my wardrobe and is a personal quest. As if a wardrobe of predominantly striped, denim and chambray isn't cohesive enough!!!
Here's a sneak at the knitwear I'm currently working on!


Jeanette Archer said...

Love this!

Bellbird said...

Really cool as always, Marilla! I love the new skirt pattern. As you know I am obsessed with that knitting you're doing, can't wait to see it when it's all finished.

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks and I am planning to show you more of thisjumper and how I planned it soon! I'm not going to wait to finish knitting because that could take forever!!! ;-)

Anonymous said...

I'm looking forward to making an Ilsley skirt soon:) That knitting project looks amazing - can't wait to see more!

Anonymous said...

The printing is so cool! The pocket detail is particularly exciting!

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Charlotte, looking forward to seeing your skirt and love all the natural dying your planning this year!

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Sonja, yeah the pocket is a nice little touch and would be a nice print detail without the rest of it on some trousers or something. Hmmm, brain ticking!

Caroline said...

Your print skirt is really cool. I love the black on grey combination. I have a fabric border print in my stash which would be a perfect match for the Isley skirt.... I need to sneak in some sewing time and soon!!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Caroline and yes get back to sewing!!! It's a tricky time of year to get motivated though, so totally understand the break! :-)

JustSewJenna said...

I love it! The printing is awesome, very inspiring! I can't wait to get making one of these, I have so many ideas!! x