Wednesday, 18 March 2015

Hand woven Evan skirt - View A


Pattern making can be very wasteful at times. First of all you have to make the pattern, which if you are trying a new shape does not often work first time and then you have to make sample garments to test the fit and detailing. Again, if you are trying a new shape then this can take several tweaks before it's how you envisaged. For my coat pattern this was especially true, as there seemed to be a lot of minor changes before I was happy to say it was ready for grading.

For this most recent pattern (the Evan skirt) I made a conscious decision that I wanted to avoid this cycle and only made two test garments before cracking into some good fabric. The two test pieces were made from some surplus vintage cotton from ebay (don't worry nothing amazing) and then I sewed up this chambray version, which needed tweaking still, but functions perfectly as is. The following versions (3 in all) were all made up from fabric that was re-purposed with the exception of this one.


This is the only fabric bought specifically for this pattern and it's an ethical, low environmental impact, hand woven denim. It's this one here from Merchant and Mills and is the same I used for my hand sewn jeans. I am consciously trying to be a more environmentally friendly sewer, which means that I will do my best, but I'm not sure how far this will stretch just yet. Now more about the skirt!

I love wearing this denim version with a chambray shirt, but I also love how it looks with my tan leather boots and bright red sweatshirt. I am doing my best here to imitate Farrah Fawcett in this amazing photo I found on Pinterest, but I don't look great in trainers with skirts. If I did then I would be reaching for the Nike Cortez (incidentally these are too narrow for my fat feet)!!!





This is a straight up View A and is thicker than the recommended fabric. The pin tucks are a lot less sharp looking because the fabric is not only thicker, but also very soft and drapey, but I don't think I could be unhappy with anything about this if I tried.



 I sewed two buttons onto my waistband. Large one on the front with the thread going through the little one on the reverse side. I just felt it was more secure somehow on an area that can get a lot of stress depending on how much I've eaten!


The beauty of this fabric is that I have a pretty red selvedge on the fly front and centre back seam.


I even had enough left to make the shortest length Maya top. I was literally left with tiny scraps and had to patchwork a bit of contrast denim in at the back, but I'm stupidly excited about donning the double denim.


Lovely denim nubbly bits!


Now, this style of this skirt lends itself perfectly to denim type fabrics and is probably what first springs to mind when you get a closer look at the detail, but let me assure you that the testers made some beautiful versions and really surprised me with their choices. If they pop up on any blogs then I will be pinning them here, so keep your eyes peeled.

6 comments:

Liz said...

Kudos on your decision to move towards more ethical fabrics! It pains me when I see so many bloggers who, for the sake of their own pleasure, casually go through fabric without considering the harm it does to the environment nor to the people who produced it. Sewing for most of us is a hobby, so why not choose to use our disposable income to buy ethical fabric and do social and environmental good instead of harm.

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Liz, I think moving into pattern design has made me even more aware of my impact than before. I hate making a toile that I know will need changes, but there always needs to be a first garment and it will allllways need to be amended. I never use calico or specific toile fabric and am now saving all scraps and unwearable garments to either recycle or use for stuffing. Baby steps, but hopefully in the right direction! ;-)

Bryanna Johnson said...

That is a great looking skirt pattern. And I looked at your hand sewn jeans. I can't believe you sewed them by hand-that's amazing!

Marilla Walker said...

Ha ha thanks! I contemplated sewing this by hand also, but just can't face it again! It's funny because when I was making the jeans I really enjoyed the process, but can't get back into the right headspace at the moment.

Kathryn said...

I just love this version! The pocket details are brilliant & I love the shape. Great inspiration photo too!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Kathryn! Xxx