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Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Sew over it (not silk) silk cami

I have been searching for the perfect cami/woven tank for the stupidest amount of time. Well, when I say searching, I actually mean deliberating between the Grainline tiny pocket tank and the Wiksten tank. I literally could not decide between the two and didn't want to feel like I'd made the wrong choice, so when I noticed the Sew over it silk cami pattern recently I thought I'd just bloody buy it and stop floundering. I actually think they are probably all very similar in fit, but the thing that the 'sew over it' pattern offers that the others do not is facings to finish the neck and armholes. I've mentioned before that I'm less keen on bias facings, so this is a welcome addition, but as it happened I have only made one version with the actual facings, because I didn't have enough fabric!!! Oh well ;-)

I have made several versions since I bought this pattern a couple of weeks ago. What can I say, I have been thinking about woven tanks for a while!!! First up is my favourite one!


This is extended to midi dress length and also slightly flared at the sides to skim over my hips. I made some fit adjustments following an initial toile, but I'll cover those in a bit.

I suppose it's obvious, but I printed the fabric for this dress. I am in love with the texture and the scale of the print and will most definitely wear this to death (summer and winter). I didn't have enough fabric for facings, so did a bias facing instead.

I have been wearing this belted. I think if it was really hot outside then I could happily wear it loose with flats, but I prefer the look of it this way.





I added a pocket, because there is never a good reason to not add one!


This next dress is the same as above, but using the patterns facings, yay! The fabric is an absolutely stunning Melody Miller print that was gifted to me from the adorable Inna. Sewing people are so amazing and she has given me some beautiful fabric that I would never have had a chance to own otherwise!

I love the way the print was split, but I was drawn to the idea of having a contrast front and back, so cut the dress with a centre front and back seam to allow me to play with it a bit. I just about managed this from the fabric I had with a little section on the front grafted in, but I'm so pleased that I did it this way. I have two large wasps on my boobs too which is always fun!




Another pocket...


Back to the pattern as drafted and below is my very wearable toile. I made a size 14 based on my measurements and it is pretty much perfect.


The only change really needed was to raise the armhole by a couple of centimetres, because I dislike how low it is. I have fat arms, so low armholes are deeply unflattering on me.

 
Sorry, I have been wearing this and didn't iron it before photos. Pretty poor show I know.
 

I like the fit with my now amended armholes and have started to make a straight forward cami, but haven't finished it for this post and think I am probably boring you anyway with my many versions!!!

This last one has the flare of the dress and the raised armholes, so is not straight up, but so loose and flowy. Going to wear this a lot, lot, lot. FYI - more hand printed fabric (cotton lawn), but the other piece of this that was in my shop has sold already :-)




Verdict is that this pattern is soooo versatile. Unlike other sleeveless cami bodices I have tried, this does not gape at the neck and has wide enough straps to make me feel covered enough, especially with the raising of the armhole. I really love that it needed minimal tampering to make it work for me and is definitely a go to pattern. I think the fact that I made four and a half in quick succession of one another definitely makes this a clear favourite. This is what happened with the Linden and Hemlock and they remain up there with my all time favourite patterns. I'm clearly a basics girl at heart. Very well drafted and really great to use, this is giving me the motivation I needed to make a start on the ultimate trousers. I made a toile ages ago, but made the wrong size, so it's taken me a while to get round to reprinting the pattern in a bigger size. Expect to see trews round here very soon!!!

P.S. These are some old and unblogged trousers from a Japanese sewing book that were in my rework pile, but I threw them on today and decided I like the cropped wide leg, so may try to add the leg shape to the ultimate trouser top. These are elasticated, badly fitting and so irritating to wear unfortunately, but they will go on to better things. Is it bad to admit though that I'm so lazy about getting changed that I'm still wearing them? ;-)