Thursday, 13 August 2015

Maya/Hudson jumpsuit

I have been dying to try something like this for ages and something must have settled in my subconscious after seeing Kelli's southport/Hudson mash-up, because when I started planning this sewing project Tuesday evening I had no idea I was going to end up making this. It was all a bit spontaneous, but the idea closely mimics some images from pinterest board here.

Here's some more pics!

I don't know if it's the expanse of fabric, but the back of jumpsuits always look a bit comical to me!

Surprise, I made another!!! This was a pretty quick make and I added snaps to make it faster still. I completed both in one sitting.

I love how they turned out (hence the second version) and am looking forward to wearing them and testing their practicality out. They even got the seal of approval from James which is unusual as he doesn't like this sort of thing. I'm really trying hard to stop myself from making another, but if I do I'll probably raise the button placket and seam line separating the top and bottoms at the front to waist height and add some pleats for extra comfort. I'll also take the waist seam round the back and add some pleats there too! Here's a visual!

Now onto the making...

I basically joined the shortest length of my Maya button front top pattern (size 4 from my size range) to the largest size Hudson pant (size 18), but here's some more info to help you do the same!

I lay the Hudson pant back leg pattern piece and the Maya top back pattern piece down flat with the centre backs lined up straight so a straight line ran from the centre back neck down to the crotch curve of the trousers. Keeping this line straight I moved the Hudson pants down until I was happy that the body/crotch length was going to fit my body. I gauged this by referring to a jumpsuit I already own and making sure the body was at least as long as this to allow for sitting and generally avoid camel toe! If you wish to make this jumpsuit with the Maya and Hudsons then the Back of my Hudson pants overlapped the bottom of the Maya at the centre back by 4cm for reference, whilst they met almost exactly on the side seam. A tip for gauging the correct body length at the end if you are using different patterns.

The only thing was that whilst the Hudson pants have a centre back seam, the Maya top does not, so I lost some width on the top. Because this is a boxy fit though I was confident this would be ok and adjusted the neckline to be slightly wider to compensate. Here I'm about to cut away 1,5cm from the neck, because the centre back is now going to be a seam.

Happy that this looked like it was going to fit ok I traced around the pattern pieces onto some large paper, marked the start of the top and any notches on the legs and cut a my back pattern piece. The grain line is running parallel with the centre back.
I lay the front pieces on my large sheet of paper too and did the same thing of making sure the centre seams were running straight, but this time pushing the Hudson pant to meet the side seam.  

Remember that the back piece of the top has lost 1.5cm of the centre back, which now has to be removed from the front!

Here is a later picture where I was about to cut away 1.5cm from the edge and I had moved the centre front line towards the side seam by 1.5cm.

I lay my new back pattern piece on top of the front pieces and lined it up with the top at the shoulders, armhole and side seam and weighted it down so it wouldn't move.

Then moving down the leg I made sure that the hem of the pants were in line with each other and that the side seams were as matched as they could be.

I drew around my pattern pieces, marking pocket openings, centre front and any leg notches and cut out the jumpsuit front.

Next I started separating everything. Cutting the trouser part away I removed the 1.5cm from the centre front top that needed to come off, extended the neck opening by 1.5cm in the same way as I did for the back and added a bit extra onto the front crotch seam allowance so that the centre fronts were the same on the top and bottom. Also remember to add 1.5cm seam allowance the bottom of the top and top of the trousers.

I cut away the pocket opening in the previous photo, but I had to tape it back temporarily to trace my new pocket pieces, so wait until you've created your new pocket before doing that! I also forgot that I added 1.5cm back onto the pocket opening to allow for the fact that this is woven and not stretch. I think they may get too gapey otherwise!

I drew a new neck facing by overlapping the seam allowance on the shoulder seams and cutting a one piece facing and that's it. Pattern done!

Tip - A good way to get the body length if you are using a different bodice pattern is to put on a top you have already made up and pin a piece of string to centre back neck. Bring the string between your legs and up to the centre front with some slack and sit down. When the string feels comfy and not tight cut it to length and use it to make sure you have enough length on your front and back pattern pieces.

I hope that this is helpful to you and I am a bit jumpsuit crazy at the moment! I may also use these new pattern pieces to make some high rise Hudson's as I am kind of digging this leg!