Wednesday, 27 January 2016

Rose jacket pattern

What a lovely name? It's my aunts name, my daughters middle name and it suits the petal back shaping of this new jacket pattern.

You may remember me getting over excited towards the end of last year about this coat. Well after I announced I was going to offer the pattern for free with little instruction I was then immediately scared!!! Over on Instagram some of my followers said they were really wanting to try it, but would feel apprehensive about such a technical coat without guidance, which put me in limbo a bit. I do want to offer things for free from time to time, as it's fun and allows me to try new things but I obviously want to limit the amount of time I spend doing it. My solution was to strip the pattern back to it's bare bones. This is what I've come up with and I hope you like it!

I ditched the standing collar and instead designed this cute and rather retro lapel. The neckline is really pretty and is a slash neck so it's straight across the back and front if you hold it closed. I might use this in a future pattern as I really like it. I have excluded front closures, so it's rather more like a kimono, but there is an overlap at the centre front should you wish to add buttons.

All construction is really simple and the sleeve hems are simply turned up and stitched, which allows you to roll them up with ease (how I like it).

So there you go! I shall run through the construction right here and now and add a link at the end to the pattern download, but I am always around if you have any questions!


I have not done a lay plan, but I managed to fit all the pattern pieces on a 2 metre piece of 140cm wide fabric that was folded in half length wise (raw edge to raw edge) instead of width wise.

It is one size only, but has plenty of ease for a variety of sizes. It is shown on the mannequin which s a UK 10 and I am between a UK 12/14. I have a 37" bust and 42" hip FYI shhh...

Fabrics - Cotton twill or denim works very well!

Onto the instructions!

When cutting your fabric mark all notches with a snip approx. 0.5cm into edge of fabric and mark all black dots (at pocket and shoulder point) with a tailors tack or water soluble pen.

All seam allowances are 1.5cm. I simply sewed the seams on the main body, overlocked the seam allowances together and topstitched down for a neat and quick finish, but if you are in the mood for something more swish then you can practice you flat felled seam skills.

All seams are topstitched down on the main coat apart from the side seams.

I have not used interfacing on the facings on this occasion as my fabric was very stable, but you may need to depending on the fabric you are working with!

Begin with the pockets.
  • Press and finish the top edge as per markings on pattern piece and topstitch down.
  • Press remaining edges in by 1.5cm, pin and sew to jacket fronts.
  • Press and finish the bottom hems (finish with either zig zag or overlocking stitch). Press in by 1.5cm and topstitch down. The reason for sewing the hems first is that they need to be done in order to complete one of the following steps (all will become clear)!
  • Sew, press, finish and topstitch the centre back seam of the back yokes right sides together. Press seam towards the left back
  •  Sew, press, finish and topstitch the jacket backs to the back yoke right sides together aligning the centre back notches to the centre back seam of the yoke. I placed the right back onto the yoke first so that it will be the top overlap from the right side followed by the left back.
  •  Sew, press, finish and topstitch the jacket fronts to the front yokes right sides together.
  • Sew, press, and finish the front and back yokes together (right sides together) at the upper arm seam. Stop the stitching at the marked 'start of shoulder seam' point and extend the snip in the seam allowance down to (but not through) the stitch line.
  • Topstitch the upper arm seam and carefully taper off the stitch line into the neckline, making sure to pull the other neckline seam allowance out of the way.
  • Sew the facings together at the shoulder seams right sides together and stopping at the 'start of shoulder seam' point. Finish the outer edges that will not be sewn to the jacket with a zig zag or over locking stitch.
  • Pin and sew the facings to the jacket right sides together. Pin the bottom hem of the facing up so it is level with the jacket hem (see pic below). 
  • Take your time around the acute angle of the shoulders. Do some forward backwards stitches on this area to re-inforce it as this has potential to be vulnerable. If you find there is some pulling when you turn through you might find snipping into the seam allowance a bit more helps! It should all sit nice and smooth.
  • Snip the corner seam allowances at the top centre front edge of the facings/main fronts and turn facings back through. Press and topstitch the bottom of the facing down along the existing stitch line on the jacket fronts.
  • To keep the facing from flapping around at the neck machine or hand tack the edge of the facing at the shoulder seam to the coat seam allowance.
  • Sew the side seams right sides together and snip into the curve of the underarm. Press and overlock or zig zag the seam allowances together spreading out the snipped area as you go.

  • Finish the sleeve hem edge (zig zag or overlock) and turn up by 1.5cm. Topstich down and you're finished!
So there you have it! The bare bones of this coat is right here and can be given a higher end finish and fancy pockets or hardware if you wish or just left as it is.

Anyway have fun and let me know if you make it as I always love to see what people do with my patterns #rosejacketpattern



Anonymous said...

This is SO SO SO SO good!!! I absolutely love this Marilla. The back especially is perfection. Such a perfect spring jacket. Can you tell I'm excited? :)

Marilla Walker said...

Ha ha thanks ingrid and quick commenting there! ;-) xxx

Sewingsu said...

THANK YOU!! This is such a fab jacket - i need one in my wardrobe asap!

Trine (groovy baby) said...

Beautiful!!! Absolutely must try this one. You're a genius, Marilla :-)

Bellbird said...

It's lovely! Definitely putting this one on my to-sew list! Do you think it'd work well in linen? I'm imagining it looking gorgeously rumpled. Thanks Marilla!

Sarah ~ Crafts from the Cwtch said...

This looks awesome!!!! Thanks for sharing it, I have just given a shout out on my Facebook page too - I'm sure my readers will love it. Xx

aklat said...

Thats gorgeous!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks so much everyone for your lovely comments! Xxx

Bella - a linen could work really well, just try to use a medium weight if unsure as I don't know how this would look in a light weight fabric!

aklat said...

Thats gorgeous!

Amelia said...

This is so lovely! Thank you for designing another great coat - I already love the Freemantle. And I think it's really cool that you have released it for free. How easy do you think it would be to grade down a size or 2?


Tassadit Rue des Renards said...

It's beautiful, I LOVE it! I have so many outerwear projects in my queue already, but I might just not resist adding this one!

Marilla Walker said...

Hey Amelia! If I were you I would make it up in it's entirety until the sewing of the side seams (these are sewn towards the end). Baste the side seams and judge how much you want to take in from there. You may want to raise the underarm curve if you are taking it in. It's meant to be an oversized style, so how much you want to take off is up to you :-)

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks tassadit - someone mentioned it looked good for cycling! Just saying... ;-)

Amelia said...

Ah, perfect that the side seams are sewn near the end - that was my first thought, to take it in at the sides, but that doesn't always work! I can't wait to give it a go!

Anna Dorothy said...

Hey Marilla!
This is a lovely pattern! Thank you for sharing it for free! I am definitely going to keep my eyes out for some fabric so I can make one for spring and fall! Thank you. Do you have any fabric recommendations?

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Anna, I recommend denim and cotton twill in the above post! I haven't really played with this pattern enough to recommend alternatives, but I think it could work well in any medium weight fabric really. Just make sure to consider how you might finish it if you use a wool for example ;-)

Heather Gibson said...

You are such a gem Marilla! What an amazing free pattern!

Jennifer Hill said...

Thank you so much! Very generous. This might be my first coat/jacket make! Thank you! Jen

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks heather and Jen, I look forward to seeing made up versions! :-)

Destanne Lundquist said...

Marilla! Thank you for the wonderful pattern. I have just recently become acquainted with your patterns and I am certainly a fan!! The Rose Jacket is a super pattern- I whipped mine up last night and am most delighted with the end result. I am a petite so the jacket is certainly oversize- which is just to my liking! I am largely influenced by the Japanese aesthetic which it seems perhaps you may be too...?
My Rose was made in a medium weight linen/rayon and it seems to be just dandy.
Also, this is my first attempt of outerwear, which has now given me the confidence to tackle future projects. High fives from the West Coast of Canada! Destanne.

Marilla Walker said...

Ohh made up already? That's amazing and I'm so happy you're inspired to tackle something more complicated! Oversize is where it's at and definitely a Japanese as well as Scandi influence! Marimekko and Cos have amazing and inspiring shapes in their collections :-)

Lisa Marshall said...

Hi Marilla, Thanks for the great pattern. I've just finished sewing it up and it looks great - I would like to line it - any ideas on how to go about it taking into account the open flapped back? I'm a bit stumped even though I've bag lined jackets in the past. Thanks again for a great pattern.

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Lisa, I would probably treat it like an underlining rather than a traditional loose lining. Line the flaps individually first to finish the hem edges nicely and then treat the two layers as one. Then sew on the yoke and yoke lining enclosing the top edges of the flaps (a bit doing a shirt yoke). Lastly line the fronts to finish off the hem edge and seam the sides and top arms joining the front to back, which could either be flat felled for a neat finish or bias bound to cover any raw edges. Then add the facings for the jacket front and neck edge. I hope this all makes sense!