Sunday, 7 February 2016

Rose jacket in Denim!

The Rose jacket I made up for the pattern release (free pattern FYI) was really just a sample to demonstrate the basic steps required to end up with a perfectly wearable jacket. This next one I am about to show you has some very minor adjustments or additions that are all perfectly doable should you wish to follow suit!

I have been pinning these gorgeous denim jackets for a while now and had in my head to use the Freemantle coat or BHL Victoria blazer pattern to make myself a super funky version. I went with the Rose jacket pattern instead because the seaming offers some fun topstitching options and it just seemed more suitable for what I want to wear it with all round really.

 I bought some amazing Ink coloured denim fabric from Merchant and Mills for this garment. I have had the sample tormenting me for a while and realised this would be a great project for it. Initially I was imagining  more bleached denim, but I like how smart this one looks. It's completely dark on the right side of the fabric with no white threads from the weave showing through. At the moment it's pretty crisp (no pre-washing as I didn't want to loose the finish), but I hope it will soften slightly with wear.

P.S. it was windy, so before I scraped my hair up it was everywhere!!!

 As you can see there are buttons on this one! I thought it would be more practical to have a jacket I could do up on a windy day. The centre front of the garment is marked on the pattern, so all you need to do is decide on your spacing and mark where the buttons should go on your pattern/fabric. I used 20mm buttons in this case.

It's difficult to see, but I got rid of the front yoke seam. I overlapped the front yoke and main coat front by 3cm to get rid of the seam allowance and just treated it as one piece.

Rather than turn the hem edge under I created a facing for the front and back hem. I did this by drawing around the hem edge of my pattern piece onto my fabric with chalk and measuring the width I wanted my facing to be (plus seam allowance) from the chalk line. Cut both left and right out at the same time and boom you have facings! All construction continued in the same order as instructed.

Some little personal touches I added were to screen print my name on the back neck facing.

Hand stitch the buttonholes. Not brilliant, but nicer than my machined ones.

Add a leather hanging loop to the outer back neck, so it's on show.

Hand stitch the lapels down through the main jacket body and underside of the lapel.

One other thing was to make the pockets approx. 2.5cm wider and longer than the pattern. I just fancied marginally bigger pockets!

I thought it would be fun to show you how else I will wear this. I think a narrow silhouette on the bottom half is best for me to balance things out, so either skinny jeans as above or this denim pencil skirt I made a couple of months ago (just needs buttons, oops). Not going to set the world alight, but it's easy and casual and comfortable!!!

Not a tricky project, but a complete pleasure to make! I really enjoyed the process and took my sweet time on this one, which I don't do very often. I think it paid off though as this will be a long standing member of my jacket family!


Anonymous said...

This is a fab jacket and denim goes with absolutely everything! The tulip back design is lovely. Wearing more fitted garments on your lower half works very well with this style of jacket.

Sewingsu said...

I love this jacket!! It looks perfect on you! I can't wait to make one - Thank you for such a great free pattern!

Bellbird said...

Oh it's suuuuper cool. I had imagined facings on the back and they look lovely.

Melissa said...

What a lovely denim jacket! You are amazing!

Helen said...

This is lovely, and the denim is gorgeous. Such an adaptable pattern. Do you think you'll share how to make the stand up collar in your original version? I loved that (and the short zip detail, which I'm sure would be easy to figure out).

Jo said...

It's gorgeous! And I loooove your little details - very cool!

Pippa Knight said...

This looks lovely, I'm not sure the lapped back would suit me but that would be easily modified.
I love the little leather hanging tag on the back. I have lots of leather scraps I might have to try something like this on my makes.

Marilla Walker said...

Hey everybody, thanks for all your lovely comments!

Helen - I'm not planning on going into detail about the zip front coat I made initially. I changed the design to be this paired down version as it was too much detail for a free pattern and am probably not going to make another version for a while. You should however be able to adapt the neckline to fit a collar from a pattern you may already have in your collection. Or maybe look for s collar drafting tutorial online. You would need to change the shape of the neckline anyway as it is currently not able to accommodate a collar that wraps around the back. Reallt sorry I can't be of more help! For a brief explanation you basically need to measure the neckline once you've redrawn it and create a rectangle that long and the width you want it (plus an overlap for the buttons) and add seam allowance.

Louise Perry said...


Jessicat said...

So lovely! My sewing pile is so high at the moment due to extra work hours, but I can dream of longs sewing days making jackets ^^ I love your skirt too, is it also made by you?