Saturday, 21 May 2016

Jeans making!

I have made jeans before. Of course I have, but I've never really enjoyed it! Apart from anything else I dreaded all the top stitching. My old machine was a bottom of the range Toyota that my parents for me whilst I was still at school about (cough, cough) 20 years ago! It has served me well and been a good companion throughout the years, but it was noisy, the needle had become misaligned and no longer central and it did not produce an even stitch. I had known for a while that it needed to be retired, but I was kind of scared. Scared of investing in something flashy only to discover that it's niggles were more annoying than the Toyota, or that actually no domestic would ever compare to the purr of an industrial so what would be the point? All this was forgotten the day I actually walked into a sewing machine shop with permission to buy a machine. I say permission, but what I mean is that I had finally given myself over to the idea of upgrading. All sounds very dramatic doesn't it? But I actually felt very emotionally attached to the machine my parents bought me, that has carried me through work, study and beyond! Now it sits on a shelf and I barely acknowledge it's existence, but I didn't know my heart could belong to another! Whatever, I bought a new Pfaff passport 2.0 is what I'm getting to and it has made sewing so infinitely more enjoyable I can't even tell you. It has bits that bother me like the way the bobbin is loaded (and the fact they are plastic). Other things I can't remember now, but what it does do is sew magnificently and it topstitches like a dream. It has 3 options for buttonholes, a built in walking foot (best thing ever) and is so so quiet. No machine is perfect, but I really love it and am certain that I made the very best choice for me.

So armed with a new machine I wanted to make some jeans. I bought and toiled the recent Morgan jeans pattern, but it was not quite right. The fit was great by the way and I opened up the back leg between the hem and the crotch by a couple of inches prior to toiling for my ample calves and it worked a treat! My issue was that I was suddenly in a position where I was over analysing what my perfect jeans were and these weren't quite it! I went back to the drawing board and combined and tweaked the Roberts leg with my trouser block for a new pattern to toile. The significant difference is the length of the crotch (low) and also the room in the seat. I don't want the back of my thighs to be hugged by jeans or the pockets to be tight up against my body. I was looking for something more easy to move around in and that looks a bit more slouchy. As an aside, the Morgan pattern seems fantastic. I didn't refer to the instructions, so can't comment, but it is a fantastic pattern!!!

This is a first toile in a really cheap denim. I have been wearing them for 3 days straight and they are great! Things to change in the fit and styling, but I shall happily wear these. I am looking forward to making a linen pair using an old vintage sheet that intend to garment dye and perhaps print?

I also really want to consider all the details. I am going for a minimal look in the topstitching and seam treatments. It is so much fun to think of these things when you know your machine will do it justice! Eww, that front waistband needs lowering, although they are mighty comfortable nice and high!

These look to be a kind of funky mum jean. I think once the waist band is lowered there will be slightly less of that about them, but I'm down with that if that's what they are!

No plans for a future jeans pattern release at this point in time by the way... ;-)