Saturday, 21 May 2016

Jeans making!

I have made jeans before. Of course I have, but I've never really enjoyed it! Apart from anything else I dreaded all the top stitching. My old machine was a bottom of the range Toyota that my parents for me whilst I was still at school about (cough, cough) 20 years ago! It has served me well and been a good companion throughout the years, but it was noisy, the needle had become misaligned and no longer central and it did not produce an even stitch. I had known for a while that it needed to be retired, but I was kind of scared. Scared of investing in something flashy only to discover that it's niggles were more annoying than the Toyota, or that actually no domestic would ever compare to the purr of an industrial so what would be the point? All this was forgotten the day I actually walked into a sewing machine shop with permission to buy a machine. I say permission, but what I mean is that I had finally given myself over to the idea of upgrading. All sounds very dramatic doesn't it? But I actually felt very emotionally attached to the machine my parents bought me, that has carried me through work, study and beyond! Now it sits on a shelf and I barely acknowledge it's existence, but I didn't know my heart could belong to another! Whatever, I bought a new Pfaff passport 2.0 is what I'm getting to and it has made sewing so infinitely more enjoyable I can't even tell you. It has bits that bother me like the way the bobbin is loaded (and the fact they are plastic). Other things I can't remember now, but what it does do is sew magnificently and it topstitches like a dream. It has 3 options for buttonholes, a built in walking foot (best thing ever) and is so so quiet. No machine is perfect, but I really love it and am certain that I made the very best choice for me.

So armed with a new machine I wanted to make some jeans. I bought and toiled the recent Morgan jeans pattern, but it was not quite right. The fit was great by the way and I opened up the back leg between the hem and the crotch by a couple of inches prior to toiling for my ample calves and it worked a treat! My issue was that I was suddenly in a position where I was over analysing what my perfect jeans were and these weren't quite it! I went back to the drawing board and combined and tweaked the Roberts leg with my trouser block for a new pattern to toile. The significant difference is the length of the crotch (low) and also the room in the seat. I don't want the back of my thighs to be hugged by jeans or the pockets to be tight up against my body. I was looking for something more easy to move around in and that looks a bit more slouchy. As an aside, the Morgan pattern seems fantastic. I didn't refer to the instructions, so can't comment, but it is a fantastic pattern!!!

This is a first toile in a really cheap denim. I have been wearing them for 3 days straight and they are great! Things to change in the fit and styling, but I shall happily wear these. I am looking forward to making a linen pair using an old vintage sheet that intend to garment dye and perhaps print?

I also really want to consider all the details. I am going for a minimal look in the topstitching and seam treatments. It is so much fun to think of these things when you know your machine will do it justice! Eww, that front waistband needs lowering, although they are mighty comfortable nice and high!





These look to be a kind of funky mum jean. I think once the waist band is lowered there will be slightly less of that about them, but I'm down with that if that's what they are!

No plans for a future jeans pattern release at this point in time by the way... ;-)

15 comments:

Wakeymakes said...

These look great. I too have the runners calf problem. You make a great funky mum keep it up K xXx

Sarah Randt said...

They look great, Marilla!

poppyinstitches said...

they look great on you! I've been looking at jeans patterns for a while and denims when I'm fabric shopping - but as yet not made a pair. The morgan pattern appealed to me and like you have just changed machines, maybe the time is right to jump in!

Caroline said...

Amazing. Love that fact that you just whip up a pattern and sew your own jeans because you can't find the perfect pair. You are one awesome lady Marilla!

Casey Maura said...

These look fantastic! I haven't made jeans in years (though tinkered with the idea of making up some last year, but never got around to it... Such is sewing for me these days! lol.), but it is such a satisfying make once you get through all the fiddly bits, isn't it? I love the relaxed style of these--and can't wait to see the linen version!

Marilla Walker said...

Hey wakeymakes - It's always an issue with close fitting trousers. It's part of the reason I don't really like wearing them, but they are the only legs I shall get! thanks for the funky mum comment ;-)

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Sarah x

Marilla Walker said...

poppyinstitches - Oh the denim always concerns me! I am really happy about the Morgans being for non-stretch as it seems much easier to source a decent one. Go for it, as there are some cracking examples of this pattern sewn up! Good luck! x

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Caroline - Ha ha, it's that control freak in me coming out again! Cheers lovely xxx

Marilla Walker said...

Hey Casey - Oh, it's such a satisfying make! I can see you in something like these funnily enough. They kind of have a retro fit about them that you see in 40's/50's fashion ;-)

Jennifer Hill said...

Um, PLEASE a jeans pattern! Funky Mum jeans are exACTly what I need, hehe! (Seriously!) They look fantastic, for comfort and style : ) Jen

Heather Gibson said...

These are awesome Marilla!! I love the big pockets and the shape of the leg! I'd totally buy this pattern if you decide to make it available to the masses! Jeans making is totally addictive!

Marilla Walker said...

Ha ha, thanks Jennifer. It is not in my current plan, but if you keep an eye out it may become something somewhere down the line. ;-)

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Heather! I really need to make another pair soon to see how I feel about them with some changes. There's just so many details to have fun with that it's completely addictive! You'll be the first to hear if it ever becomes a pattern (ages and ages away).

Melissa said...

It's great you've found a pair that you love and made yourself! Although I have jeans patterns I haven't been in a rush to make them as I have RTW ones I am quite happy with. Funny that. It's like it's a challenge, rather than a necessity, to make jeans for me! Looking forward to your linen version.