Monday, 13 June 2016

Plain Roberts jumpsuit adaption

Right I'm being super organised and writing this tutorial up straight away!

I printed out some super dinky quarter scale pattern pieces to show you how to make this. It is basically the Roberts jumpsuit minus any of the style lines, front pleats or pockets. For more pics see previous post here.

First off I am going to quickly show you how I blend between the sizes. My measurements put me roughly in a 3 on the top and a 4 for the bottom, which is what is cut out below (I only printed the 2 sizes I needed to use for this tutorial).

As you can see clearly from the back pieces these are not going to fit together, so on the trouser portion I blended from a 4 to a 3 marking from the side seam notch below the pocket to the notch at the top of this side seam. I cut this away as well as the size 4 markings on the top edge of the trousers.

 Now it all fits together nicely!

To do the same for the front I laid my pocket lining and facing on top of the front trouser leg aligning all the notches and pinned them all together.

 I then laid the altered back leg on top aliging the side seam notch and making sure the lengthen/shorten lines were running in line with one another and cut the same amount away on the front as I did on the back. You only really cut into the pocket facing at this point, but it's good to have it all pinned together to cut away the top edge of the trouser front in line with the size 3 markings (or what ever size you are blending to).

 In actual fact we do not need the pocket lining at all for this alteration, but it's handy to show you how I blended the whole thing if you are about to just make a normal Roberts jumpsuit anyway. The same method also works for the dungarees and dress.

Now to get rid of the seams...

The back is very straight forward as you just need to mark the 1.5cm seam allowance on the diagonal edges and overlap the pieces so these markings are aligned. Once done tape together for one long back piece!

 For the front you can remove the pocket lining, but leave the pocket facing pinned to the trouser leg (but on the reverse side).

You can't see it in the pictures that follow, but I laid the new long back piece down first and then overlaid it with the front trouser leg so that the side seam notches were again aligned and the lengthen/shorten lines were corresponding. I then positioned the front bodice in top with the shoulder seams and armholes matching and then taped all the pieces together once I was happy that the front and back were in line with on another. The front bodice has gained 2cm on the centre front. Not that you are physically adding width to the pattern piece, but you are no longer making a button placket are no longer overlapping the centre front. I found my bodice was a couple of millimetres short of reaching the centre front of the trousers so I just blended the line with a pencil and cut the excess away to neaten it out.

The centre front of the bodice is also shortened a touch because there was previous shaping across the dropped waist seam. It is not much and did not impact the fit in length on me, but it's something to note if you are concerned about the length in the body at all!

 So here you have two long jumpsuit pieces!

You can either leave the legs as they are or you can alter them to be wider as I did. Now I did use the Mercury leg as a reference with alteration, but this is long winded and you may only have the Roberts pattern, so we are going to do it this way instead.

First I removed 4.5cm from the leg length (you may want to do more or less depending on your height and leg length). I am about 5'5" with a 29" inside leg.

For the front leg I then added 3cm to the inside leg and 2cm to the outside. The outside is straight from the side seam hip notch down to the hem, whilst the inside leg is shaped in a bit following the original shaping.

On the back leg I extended the crotch curve by 1cm and added 5.5cm to both the inside and outside leg. Again the outside leg is straight from the hip notch to hem. The inside leg is shaped and needs to measure the same as the front leg. I have only marked the pattern piece below with seam allowance, but ideally you would need to mark the pattern piece minus the seam allowance to measure this accurately.

So now you have basic jumpsuit with wider legs. If you want palazzo legs then just bring the inside and outside leg seams straight down square with the hem. I may try this for my next one!

At this point you may want to trace around your new pattern pieces so that you can continue to use the jumpsuit in it's original form.

Remember these funky pockets? Well if you want to add some similar then below is a rough guide.

First of all mark the length of the pocket opening you would like with a notch either end (marked in red below). Also mark the seam allowance on this area.

The shape of your pocket opening (a curve in this instance) can then be contained within the notches marking the length and inside the seam allowance. I promise you I made a neater curve on my real pocket pattern!

Trace the pocket opening shape and notches on a new piece of paper and cut a pocket bag which follows the side of the jumpsuit and is the depth and width you would like. I have drawn a pocket bag with seam allowance included so make sure the top edge has at least 1.5-2cm above the pocket opening. you will need this for pocket construction later on.

Trace around the pocket bag you just created so that you now have two.

Next add a seam allowance to the pocket opening shape on both the jumpsuit and the pocket bag with the markings on (this is now your pocket lining).

Cut the shape away from both. The blank pocket bag is now the pocket facing.

Sewing it together - Pin and sew the pocket lining to the jumpsuit front with right sides together.

Trim and under stitch the seam allowance and turn back through to the wrong side of the garment.

Pin and sew the pocket facing to the pocket lining with right sides together. Finish the edge with either a zig zag or over lock stitch.

Baste the pocket to the side seam either side of the pocket opening and you have constructed your pockets! I mentioned in my last post that these have a tendency to pop back out, but topstitching the pocket bag to the trouser leg may look nice to prevent that.

That was a bit of a deviation because I am not done with the alterations yet!

I raised the front neck by approximately 3cm and lowered the back neck by about 5cm for a marginally different look.

If you are going to alter the neckline then just draft new facing pieces by tracing around the new neckline. The back neck facing is no longer cut on the fold due to the zip opening. I also cut my front neckline in two pieces because the centre seam acts as a nice guide when sewing the V-neck.

Construction wise because of the back zip and pockets I completed these areas first.

For the back I measured my zip (I used approximately 45cm/18") and marked the length on the back seam allowance. Mark 1.5cm away from the back neck edge down. I then sewed the centre back seam from the crotch to the mark indicating where the base of the zip would be. After that I basted and hand sewed my zip in place.

For the front I finished my pockets as above and then sewed the left and right front together up the centre front seam.

The rest was constructed pretty much as per the instructions. Just ignore any bits that are no longer relevant.

If you would like some tutorials for zip insertions then here are a couple of recommendations.

Here's a great exposed zipper tutorial from papercut patterns. It can be used on a plain panel or a seamed panel so is pretty handy.

Here's a tutorial for a centred zip from Megan Neilson. I did mine slightly different because I hand basted and then hand sewed the zip, but there are many ways to reach the end goal!

I hope that I have included everything you need to know to go forth and alter, but just give me a nudge if I have missed anything.

The only thing left is to add a sash belt which can be any length and width you please.

Ta ta xxx