Pointy edge coat pocket

Here is a closer look at the inside pocket of my recently finished coat and a quick run through how I added it!

The points I have edged my inside pocket with appear to be called prairie points and are the type that can be nested as described in this McCalls post. I saw this idea somewhere else and it was described as a Hong Kong pocket or something similar, so is something traditionally found in tailored garments. Mine is a lot clunkier and less delicate than the example I have seen because I wanted it to look like teeth to scare my children (naturally), but you could make this look far more delicate with smaller nested points.

To start, there was no pattern for an inside pocket, so I just free hand cut into the fabric two pocket pieces. It is a rectangle big enough to store a phone and the extra bit on the side is big enough for my hand to fit in and out of. That extra bit is 1.5cm wider than the bottom edge.

I folded back the edge flap by 1.5 cm (wrong sides together) and pressed along this line on both pocket pieces.

I then marked with chalk the end of the pocket opening so I know where to start sewing when I come to make the pocket up. I used a seam allowance of 1cm for the pocket seams.

I cut a long strip of the lining fabric which measured 6cm wide, but you can alter this to make smaller or larger triangles.

I pressed it along the length with wrong sides together and then chopped it up into short lengths. They look approximately 6cm long, but I don't think you need to be terribly accurate with this method. The McCalls link I mentioned above is far more methodical if you want to work to a more precise formula.

 I then folded the rectangles I cut in half and pressed them to make small squares. The squares have two nicely finished, pressed edges which will form the pocket edging.

My pocket is on the left hand of my coat, so I sewed the triangles to the pocket lining piece with the extra flap on the right hand side (if the right side of the fabric is facing up).

I used the pressed line on the pocket lining as my stitch guide and just kept adding the points as I got to the end of the last one so they are butt up next to each other. I just went by eye to make sure the height of the points are the same, but you could easily draw a chalk line for accuracy.

Important - Make sure the points remain within the seam allowance of the pocket bag!

Yet another example of my non-methodical approach to this technique is the excess from the points in the picture below. Just trim these down in line with the pocket lining edge.

Make the pocket up! Sew the two pieces with right sides together and with the points pointing inside the pocket. Don't go beyond the stitch line along the pocket opening when joining your pocket pieces together. FYI - The seam below at the bottom of the pocket opening is an 'L' shaped seam if you are planning to cut the same shape pocket as me.

Pin the pocket bag to your coat lining centre front edge and sew in place. It is the edge with the points on you are attaching to the lining (although you could sew the points to the coat if you prefer).

Next flip the pocket back around to the wrong side of the lining  and that's pretty much it!

When you hand sew your lining into your coat you can also sew the remaining edge of your pocket down.

I was just making it up as I went along to try an idea out, but you can iron out any kinks and make a much nicer job of it if you have a go!

Finished coat - Vintage Vogue 9939

All finished and I am a bit sad about that as it was a really enjoyable make, but then I am also really happy to have something for the new season and finished ahead of actually needing to wear it. A rarity!

It was such an easy make really. It took time because of all the hand sewing, but there was no fitting because I already new I liked the fit from a previous make and it does not require loads of different interfacings or interior structure. I added interfacing to the centre fronts and collar as instructed and hand sewed it in place rather than heat set it, but that was it! When I hand sew the majority of a garment or thing like this I tend to keep going with it, so although my interfacing had a gluey side, I chose not to fuse it. Crazy huh?

There are more close up detail shots in this post and notes about the length of the coat, but this finished length is what I shortened it to. It finishes below most of my dresses which I like and has retained the feel from the original illustration (I think).

Not much else to say really. I added a pretty cool inside pocket, which I can show in more detail if anyone's interested!

The lining is all sewn in by hand, which I love doing. It is satisfying to get everything sitting exactly where I want it with no pulls or dragging. The lining is a dark brown slinky twill satin. Probably synthetic, but I can't remember. It's possible it may contain viscose, but who knows...

I haven't pressed anything on this coat (apart from the lining). The under collar on the back looks as though it's rolling back, but everything else is laying fine, so I think I shall probably leave it! Also the bottom hem is looking a bit soft in these pictures like it could do with a gentle press, so I may just do that. All seam allowances are sewn down flat and haven't been pressed.

I opted for the fastening as suggested in the pattern which is just at the collar. Well it says loop and button, but a hook and eye is pretty much the same. I think I will add one at waist height, but on the inside of the coat too so it doesn't flap about in the wind, but I do like this simple finish.

Anyway, that's it from me and all set for the cold weather! The olive colour is not really represented in these photos very well, but it basically goes with everything in my wardrobe. As for the boiled wool itself, it seems the perfect texture for a coat like this (although required underlining). I'm unsure how it will wear as it looks prone to bobbling. If anyone has experience with this fabric then please share.

Thanks for following along with me and happy winter sewing! xxx

Vintage wrap top

Onto my second vintage pledge already and it's another wrap!

This one comes from an old magazine and is featured on a few blogs, but this is the one I found first. It's not a pattern, but a tutorial that is originally from Life magazine, but all the links to the article I have found seem to be broken.

 

It's so simple, but elegant. I knew as soon as I saw it that I wanted this to be my next vintage pattern pledge make. It's a similar idea to the walkaway dress, but nicer!

I have not followed it to the letter, but I haven't strayed too far away from the original. I mean it's a rectangle, so I haven't gone crazy!!!

I didn't want to wear something quite so figure hugging, but wanted to play with the idea, so I have kept it loose fitting and rather than adding ties have added a side button fastening.

and rather than back ties I added an elastic strap. Before you recoil in disgust at this monstrosity, let me assure you this has been removed!!! After about half a hour of wearing the top the elastic bugged me so much I cut it off and machine sewed the flappy fabric wrapping from the front to the back piece. It's loose fitting so is easy to pull on and off without any fastenings. It's become less wrap around now and more woven t-shirt.

 

 

This is what I have now done. The stitch line is on the back and goes through to the edge of the front wrap starting a few centimetres from the hem and ending a few centimetres above the line of the top button.

 

I may add ties to a future version, but I am happy that I haven't on this one as I appreciate the looser and cooler fit here and also feel that front ties would limit it's flexibility to wear with more garments.

 It's interesting what you gauge with wearing an item and if you choose to have a go at this top then it's all about putting your rectangle over your head and deciding where you want to place your fixtures and fittings. It's fun to play or experiment and it just goes to show what you can do with no paper pattern and simple shapes. You could even bung a couple of rectangles onto the sides for sleeves!

Here's what I looks like flat. Ok, so it's not entirely like this now since I removed the elastic and sewed it shut on the side seams, but you get the idea. I even think that this would look nice with the edges sewn up to under the arm to make a rectangle t-shirt or tunic.

The neckline I borrowed from the BHL Anna dress and is so pretty. I simply bound it with bias tape.

Here's some diagrams of the fabric dimensions and construction.

For my measurements I measured from the highest point of my shoulder to my waist. I then added 3cm for a shoulder seam allowance and small hem. The shoulder allowance is optional, but I was using a directional print so needed a seam there.

For the width I measured my waist and subtracted 10cm (this includes allowance for the double turned edges), so that it was wide enough for a wrap, but not too wide that it would meet in the middle.

All edges were double turned with a 1.5cm allowance and the shoulder was French seamed.

The button holes and button placement were judged once I had it draped on the body, so is down to personal preference.

So that's it really. I only used half a metre of fabric, as I got the front and back out of the width of fabric and used a ready made binding for the neck so super economical and zero waste!!!

I know there are sewists who don't like to work at all without a pattern, but it's fun! When I was learning pattern cutting at uni we were encouraged to drape with big shapes and see what happened and this is kind of like an introduction to that. It frees you up from the constrains of body blocks and can lead to really interesting forms should you explore the idea further.

How about you, would you have a go at this?