Wednesday, 20 September 2017

Denim landers

Hi hi!

Following on from my last post about these Lander pants I dove straight in and made pair number 2. This time in a lovely, lovely denim from Merchant and Mills. I ordered a sample in this slightly washed blue and the darker colour and was surprised how much it feels like some non-stretch cone mills denim I bought. Sold!!!

I did take some of the length out of the length along the top of the trousers which was bunching around my waist in my wool pair and I think I'm done tweaking. Well, I am anyway because with two new pairs of trousers for winter I'm sort of done. Goal achieved! 

Not much to say. They are full length, but I'm pretty sure I will always wear them rolled up like this.

One thing to say about how I fitted these and my previous pair is that they are not over fitted. You can see more with the denim that there is a fair amount of room under my tummy, but I find this to be the most flattering and comfortable to wear on my figure. I think to aim for the picture on the envelope would be a mistake for me as I want the fabric to skim rather than pull and also want to create a nice shape rather than outline that particular area. Just something to mention about fitting considerations and preference.

I wonder if I should raise the pockets a little in future. Hmmm!

After wearing my wool pair and finding the waistband too susceptible to stretching out I decided to be cautious and reinforce the top line of the inner waistband with a topstitched cotton herringbone tape. It's great actually. It feels so sturdy and allows the bottom of the waistband to mould to my body a bit whilst the top line doesn't budge.

The gorgeous rust effect metal buttons were also from Merchant and Mills. A bit of a splurge, but I love them! They have a very early Hussein Chalayan vibe to them.

I did not line the pockets and finished the opening edge of the front pockets with a bias facing.

Lots of lovely topstitching in a thick cotton thread.

So back to the wool pair! I did go back and mend the stretching out waistband. This did mean abandoning the back waistband tabs, but this is so much better. The overlap on the front acts as a trouser waist stay and although it looks like Fort Knox to get in, it's really not fiddly ;-)

So worth the effort of going back and fixing because I know I will wear these a tonne (I am wearing them again now).

 Anyway, still nothing but love for this pattern x


Anonymous said...

Thanks for your great thoughts on the Lander and your fitting journey. I'm so thrilled to see wider leg trouser patterns that are fitted at the waist! Seriously takes me back to the late 70's..... one trend I'm glad to wear again!! Your idea of bias binding for the pocket curve is brilliant. So far I've made the Merchant and Mills Strides from the Workbook and McCalls 7445 and love, love, love both. But I'm obsessed with trousers this fall and about to try the Lander Pant. Have you tried either of the others for comparison?

Sarah Sparkles said...

I have major trouser envy!! I have a full tummy, too, and your detailed adjustment in the wool post makes me feel like I could actually do that and make myself a pair of these lovely trousers!

I love your style, Marillla!

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Kathleen, thanks so much for your comment and I love the look of both the styles you have referenced. I haven't tried either yet, but I am tempted by both to be honest! Wide leg with a high fitted waist definitely suits my body more than close in the leg (unless it's leggings). I have mostly worn this style and the great thing about sewing is that you can re-create to your hearts content! Hmmm, you have me twitching about buying the M&M book now.... ;-) xxx

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Sarah! I think that as long as you tailor your adjustments to your preferences as the wearer then most styles can work! Just think about what makes you happy, which is basically clothes that don't need constant adjustment to sit in the right place and just feel like a second skin. These would look great on you! Also I can't recommend getting a fitting book enough to help out with the correct way for making adjustments! Something like 'pants for real people', as I've heard loads of great things about it! X

Bellbird said...

Gosh these look great!! I don't need any encouragement to visit the Merchant and Mills website. It's very bad for my credit card but their fabrics are some of my absolute favourites! Love those buttons x

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Bella, I am loving them. I must admit that since taking these photos I have taken them in a bit around the hips and waist as they were a touch too roomy, but they are so blooming comfortable. Now wondering if I should order the darker denim..... Merchant and Mills may as well have all my money! x

Let's Get Sewing said...

These look amazing! I love everything about them - the colour, the fabric, the shape.